There is a French restaurant in Hialeah. Believe it. But just because Sandy Sanchez and Benoit Rablat's La Fresa Francesa Petit Café serves crepes and steak-frites doesn't mean it can't pay homage to the neighborhood. In fact, it does just that with the appropriately named Un Cubano in Paris ($9.75). A pork shoulder is soaked in milk, rubbed with garlic and paprika, and plunged into white wine for four hours. Once the meat is appropriately softened, it's shredded into silken threads and piled along with pickled red onion and creamy Dijon mustard onto a fluffy roll from Los Angeles' La Brea Bakery. Is it pan con lechón? Not really. Nor is it an archetypal French sandwich à la croque-monsieur. It's a beautiful example of the magic that can happen only in "La Ciudad Que Progresa."