At NaiYaRa, skip the standard pad thai. Beyond the crowd pleasers and plates that help pay the rent are a handful of ambitious dishes offering a peek at the possibilities. The beef jerky is crackly, smoky, meaty shards of addictive goodness. The woody, almost incense-like perfume of ground coriander overtakes your senses. The spicy dipping sauce called nahmjimjao, made with sweet tamarind pulp, lime juice, and chilies, functions almost like a barbecue sauce, yet it's far superior because its clean flavors complement rather than overshadow the meat. Insider tip: The menu is a blend of Thai street food and Japanese specialties, including a selection of sushi, sashimi, and raw items. You can't go wrong with red snapper or maguro sushi and sashimi options or the NaiYaRa roll — salmon belly, cucumber, avocado, and truffle oil topped with salmon belly brûlée.