If you’re not used to the searing heat of Thai spice, ask for Yung Yai Thai Tapas’ larb — a chilled ground-pork salad spiked with hefty doses of cumin, chilies, and star anise. It’s one of a number of recipes chef/owner Bas Trisransi is reviving after learning at his grandfather’s side decades ago. Bas knows that the development of deep, complex flavors can’t be rushed, which is why dishes such as the palo moo and tom yum soup take hours to reach perfection. It’s quality Thai food that’s both affordable and casual, and the tapas style will rightly tempt diners to sample everything on the menu. A meal at Lung Yai Thai is a crash course for the palate; come with a sense of culinary adventure and depart with a newfound appreciation for authentic Thai flavors (and a full belly). New Normal: Lung Yai Thai has a small outdoor patio and now offers takeout and delivery.