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billwisserphoto.com

Beachcraft

billwisserphoto.com
It seemed inevitable Tom Colicchio would open a place in Miami. He’s been eyeing the city since David Bouley’s Evolution vacated the Ritz-Carlton South Beach in 2007. But there was little hint the smooth-domed chef whose face is a fixture everywhere from television to Capitol Hill would take on a project as large as the 1 Hotel South Beach. The hotel's eco-friendly obsession jibed with Colicchio's longstanding culinary sensibility, which revolves around sustainably raised produce and proteins. Here, he asked Michelle Bernstein and Michael Schwartz to set him up with local purveyors. Some dishes fade from memory not due to any fault but because of their almost ascetic simplicity. Occasionally there are moments when you have to remind yourself that sourcing factors into the high cost. Nevertheless, an organic vegetable plate is one that should be on every table. The raw bar breaks from the usual with a pair of razor clams served side-by-side heaped with sliced meat. The Atlantic variety used here, also called Jackknife clams, are at once sweet and savory. Pastas have become a fast signature and mostly revolve around semolina varieties extruded daily. The simplest is toothsome garganelli twists tossed with thick shreds of braised rabbit that are reminiscent of a winter stew, with elegant carrot spheres, bitter greens, and crushed pistachios for an earthy crunch.Read our full review.

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