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billwisserphoto.com

Vagabond Restaurant & Bar

billwisserphoto.com
At the Vagabond Restaurant & Bar, Alex Chang serves chapulines -- grasshoppers sourced from Mexico that are boiled, sun-dried, and roasted in garlic and chilies before they're vacuum-packed and sent north. Such is what's now expected of the 25-year-old Chang, who became a quasi-culinary celebrity after he appeared in a documentary about an illegal restaurant he ran with a college roommate. Now in his first chef role following stints in top restaurants around the world, Chang deploys smartly composed dishes that feature sweetbreads and beef hearts alongside more traditional items like seared wahoo and ricotta gnocchi. All prove he has the potential to go from a flash in the pan to a longstanding staple.Read our full review.

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