Cries of tragedy rang out across the Upper Eastside when this homey Mediterranean bistro's owner and namesake Liza Meli closed the original location on Northeast 79th Street. They were soon met with an equal measure of cheers when she moved into the space that used to house Michelle Bernstein's Michy's on Biscayne Boulevard. Here, the bright menu, which includes refreshing comestibles like boquerones ($6), baked halloumi cheese ($14), and grilled patties of ground lamb studded with pistachios ($14), is both eminently affordable and shareable. Yet it's Meli herself who makes the place so special. As the maestra of the space, she's there to welcome you with (currently socially distanced) open arms and guide you through a night with grace, smiles, and more than a shot of ouzo or sambuca.