Listen, dear friends. Forget for a moment the hamachi with jalapeño and citrus, the cloying Brussels sprouts with bacon, and the pork belly with whatever. While the small-plates phenomenon has long been enjoyed and reviled by eaters of all stripes, it's worth returning again and again to this Sunset Harbour tapas spot for a reminder of where it comes from, and a temperature check on whether it's being done right. With skill and equal measures of restraint and creativity, the kitchen led by chef and co-founder Juliana Gonzalez re-creates the small dishes that are so essential to life in Spain. Hence, a plate of Cantabria's peerless white anchovies with garlic, tomato gelée, and a yuzu-truffle vinaigrette ($16) alongside a wahoo crudo with black olive dust, pearl onions, and lemon zest ($16). Of course, the whole purpose of tapas bar is to enjoy life, and so the best thing you can do is simply bring those you love, mix them with a few pitchers of sangria or bottles of albariño and trust the kitchen to do the rest.