Try to sound it out slowly: Phuket Thongsodchaveondee ("poo-ket tong-so-cha-ven-dee"). Got it? Good. Now you know who's saving Miami from peanut-buttery pad thais and so-called curries containing little more than jarred paste and canned coconut milk. Thongsodchaveondee's tiny Biscayne Boulevard spot is covered with ads for superhero movies ripped out of Thai magazines. The offerings scribbled on a chalkboard menu demand a double take. There's branzino in orange curry ($25); fresh, flat noodles with grilled pork shoulder in a thick, savory miso broth ($10); and fried rice studded with chunks of fermented pork sausage ($9). The cook, who formerly worked at Bal Harbour's famed Makoto, learned much of his art from his father, who once owned a hotel in Phuket Province, known for its azure waters. Perhaps Miami's similarly stunning beaches are what drew Thongsodchaveondee to the Magic City. Whatever happened, we're glad he brought the flavors of home with him.