Sugarcane exudes the big-city allure of a longtime landmark oyster bar and grill. The menu is divided into three categories: the raw bar, the Japanese robata grill, and some 20 small plates of globally inspired snacks. Raw bar items include blackboard selections of seasonal oysters, shrimp cocktail, king crab legs, several crudos, and a limited list of sushi, sashimi, and rolls. Among the dozen or so robata dishes, chicken yakitori is a favorite: soft, plump pieces of breast meat interspersed with snippets of thick, almost-leek-like Tokyo scallions, all lightly charred and glazed with a slightly sweet, mirin-and-soy-based sauce. Small-plate highlights include delicate veal meatballs in a sticky-rich sherry-fueled demi-glace, a New England lobster roll with shaved celery and fennel salad, crisp goat cheese croquettes, and steamy white pork buns brightened with apple kimchee and cilantro.