We've got a doubleheader cooked up for this week's Cafe review. Here's a little lick of each:
Jackson Soul Food:
Like many other patrons in the room, we started with an insulated urn of freshly brewed coffee that's placed on the table. The menu contains à la carte dishes (oatmeal, waffles, and so forth), but most breakfasts consist of some combo -- either pancakes or French toast with choice of protein -- or eggs any style with grits or home fries, biscuits or toast, and choice of protein. It would be crazy, perhaps criminal, to choose toast over two square, homemade biscuits with a floury crust and moistly crumbed interior.
Skip the fried beef taquitos (too dry), tortas (too bready), and quesadillas (too bland). Hearty appetites should head straight for a chimichanga or burrito. The former features either shredded beef, chicken pastor, or steak carnitas wrapped in a large flour tortilla with refried beans and Monterey Jack cheese; the whole enchilada, er, chimichanga, is then deep-fried to crisp splendor. The carnitas version was delicious, especially when complemented with the sour cream, guacamole, and salsa served on the side.
2600 NW 87th Ave.
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Jackson Soul Food
950 NW 3rd Ave.