At Duck 'N Sum in Coconut Grove, Cantonese-inspired dishes reach a new level of satisfaction. Don't let the name fool you — there's no dim sum here, just really good Asian fusion. That's especially true of chef/owner Raymond Kasprzak's sublime interpretation of duck fried rice. The rice is light and fluffy, whisked in a hot wok with just a hint of sesame oil before it's topped with still-crisp vegetables, a Chinese tea egg, and a heaping pile of fragrant roast duck. Kasprzak loves duck, as evidencedby the 48-hour process it takes to roast two styles — Cantonese (marinated with star anise, Szechuan pepper, and licorice root) and Peking (tender, juicy meat beneath crisp, crackly skin). Both create the base for most of his dishes, which range from riffs on bao buns and spring rolls to noodles and sides made with spicy veggies.