Favorite Dishes

Miami Beach's True Loaf Bakery Is Your Next Favorite Lunch Spot

Tomas Strulovic always planned to sell sandwiches out of his quaint whitewashed bakery, but since its opening in 2014, the space where they'd be assembled has sat dormant. No more. About a month ago, his True Loaf Bakery began offering a handful of sandwiches Thursday through Sunday.

This past weekend, five were offered, including a choripan ($10) (a likely nod to Strulovic's Venezuelan roots) that tucked a juicy orange-and-fennel Miami Smokers sausage, pickled red onions, and chimichurri into one of the bakery's crusty baguettes. There was also a BLT ($10) with house-cured bacon and a tarragon mayonnaise, and roast beef ($10) slicked with with a goat cheese mousse knotted up with caramelized onions. Both came on thick toasted slices of crusty country wheat. 

Though the sandwiches are available only on weekends, Strulovic hopes to use them to build a lunch crowd and eventually bring on more staff to serve them throughout the week. "From the very beginning, the plan was to make sandwiches," Strulovic says. "Once it picks up, we'll add another person and start offering more sandwiches, soups, salads, and juices."

Strulovic also dispels the notion that the sandwiches might pave the way for his opening another location or café. Before moving into his Wynwood bakery, Zak Stern, while operating out of a Little Haiti bakery, offered a handful of premade sandwiches at spots such as Panther Coffee. "We don’t want another location," Strulovic says. "We just want to improve what we do every day, add new products, and keep quality control to the maximum."

True Loaf enjoys a pristine reputation despite its limited size. At age 41, Strulovic abandoned finance for baking courses in San Francisco, followed by an internship in Massachusetts. He returned to Miami with some basic baking skills, but even after signing the lease on his shop, he was still hampered by challenges. He had never rolled a croissant. His bread wouldn't rise. Before long, however, his wares began selling out before noon and began appearing at Michael Schwartz's café Ella and at Panther Coffee. Now Strulovic offers another reason to keep an eye on Sunset Harbour real estate. If prices begin sagging, you might want to snap up a condo. It's a good investment, with the bonus of having True Loaf's sandwiches within walking distance. 

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Zachary Fagenson became the New Times Broward-Palm Beach restaurant critic in 2012 before taking up the post for Miami in 2014. He also works as a correspondent for Reuters.
Contact: Zachary Fagenson