La Taberna Giralda

Upon entering La Taberna Giralda, it appears to be more wine shop than dining establishment, as wooden crates and cardboard cases filled with mostly South American bottles take up the restaurant's entranceway. Like stage props, they provide the requisite setting and mood — that of a quaintly cluttered, Old World bistro. The atmosphere, in fact, practically begs you convert a couple of those bottles into a starring role with your meal; so does a corkage fee of only two dollars. The Peruvian cuisine may play second fiddle to the endearing environment, but most of it is first rate just the same. The seafood-intense menu only offers one fish, corvina, and a cast of assorted shellfish, all of which are available deep-fried, broiled, stewed, and sauteed, with sundry sauces such as tomato, garlic, picante, or cilantro. A few beef dishes are available as well.