A coal-black plate is littered with a half-dozen buttery sweetbreads poached in
The cuisine is a peek into the mind of Giorgio Rapicavoli, who three months ago opened Coconut Grove's 200-seat Glass & Vine. "I feel like if things are similar in color, they'll taste good," the 30-year-old says. For example, a recent order of yellow beets was melded with passionfruit and saffron.
If you want to see Rapicavoli work, grab a seat in one of the lime-green chairs under the old Grove library's vaulted wooden ceiling. Yet most of the time, it's chef de cuisine Adriana Egozcue, a former sous chef at Rapicavoli's breakout hit, Eating House, running the compact kitchen. The pair has worked together since he was executive chef of 660 at the Anglers and she was a line cook.
The bulk of the seating at Glass & Vine is outside. A
Here, Rapicavoli has taken the ingenuity that made his Eating House a runaway success and used it to punch up elegant simplicity. Combine that with attentive service and the Grove's charm, and it's no wonder people are willing to risk sitting in a downpour.
The menu here eschews plate sizes and is split into four sections: Snacks, Garden, Sea, and Land. To start, opt for the barbecue spiced nuts that in recent weeks have included cashews and walnuts tossed in a meringue spiked with garlic and onion powder, paprika, brown sugar, and complete seasoning. Left out to dry, the savory nibble takes on an ear-shattering crunch when eaten.
Nearly all dishes arrive on black plates, which make for eye-popping and sometimes ominous presentations. Charred cauliflower is first roasted and later fried until the florets take on a
Those black plates also work well for a trio of fat, butter-seared sea scallops cloaked by charred cabbage. The pleasing scent of fire tickles the nose as a server sets it down. The beige theme continues with a luxurious broken egg yolk vinaigrette with whiffs of lemon and black truffle. There's all the satisfying richness of red meat without the steak knife.
Sturdy curls of semolina pasta are varnished in a thin slick of butter sporting the tang of sea urchin. Buttery knobs of rock shrimp lend sweetness, while some watercress and toasted breadcrumbs offer a crunch. It's a bit too similar to the bucatini served at Tom Colicchio's
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That's why it's difficult, without some forethought, to get a reservation here other than the dreaded 5:30 or 9:30 p.m. slots. Perhaps the coming onslaught of restaurants — from James Beard Award winner Michael Schwartz and Rapicavoli's partner Grove Bay Hospitality Group — will help alleviate the crush. Better yet is that the competition will make many of them push harder. It should help Rapicavoli, who, despite his success, remains in the early years of his career. If Glass & Vine is the benchmark, start hoarding your cash in preparation for the next inevitable real-estate slump. A nice place nearby on the cheap becomes a better idea every day.
Glass & Vine
2820 McFarlane Rd., Coconut Grove; 305-200-5268; glassandvine.com. Daily 5:30 to 10 p.m.
Charred cauliflower $10
Shrimp toast $15
Sea scallops $22
Semolina pasta $24
Grilled sweetbreads $21