Driving down Grand Avenue, the only thing that might clue you into the existence of Golden Ribs is a sign standing on the street's median. Tucked in between a hair salon and a barber shop, the small space in West Coconut Grove is the new home to long-time rib man, Calvin. He's a man of few words and an aloof one, disappearing into the kitchen anytime we attempted to get in a word with him.
A handwritten menu above the counter lists spare- and short-end ribs sold by quarter, half and whole rack. They're grilled out back on charcoal (something that becomes very evident in their taste) and they're served with a very vinegary "special sauce."
Our half rack of spare ribs ($11.50) was, unfortunately, dry.
But the menu goes beyond ribs. The "chicken bomb," a greasy (in a good way) grilled chicken sandwich with cheese, bacon, mushrooms, green peppers and onions, was a good option - a better one than the ribs on this occasion.The Philly cheesesteak, we're told, is a favorite. Other items on the menu include burgers, fried conch, BBQ chicken and wings, and chicken souse (from how it was described it seems to be the Caribbean soup type souse not the pickled meat type).
The transition into the storefront still seems to be a work in progress. For now, Golden Ribs only accepts cash and the place has no seating space, but we're told the credit card machine (along with a phone line) and some counter seating are coming soon.
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Golden Ribs is open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. on weekdays and from 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. on weekends.
3809 Grand Avenue