Villagio Restaurant

Can a sprawling suburban temple built to entertain the joys of rabid consumerism really be home to a moderately priced Italian restaurant with the sensibilities of an authentic Tuscan trattoria? Actually, yes, if the restaurant is Villagio. Succulent rock shrimp with plump cannellini beans, arugula, radicchio, and tomatoes tossed in a mild balsamic dressing is as delightful as it is elemental. A sizable veal chop thinly pounded and topped with a lusty mélange of roasted potatoes, artichoke hearts, and radicchio is even better.