Speaking about a restaurant in New York, the great philosopher Yogi Berra once said, "Nobody goes there anymore. It's too crowded." He could have been talking about Maroosh, a first-rate Middle Eastern restaurant that draws regular crowds despite flying under the local foodie radar. Skip the vaguely Mediterranean dishes on the lengthy menu and stick with the Middle Eastern specialties: dolmades (stuffed grape leaves), foul medamas (fava bean puree with tomatoes), meaty little Lebanese sausages, and empanada-like pies with a lemony spinach filling. Garlicky lamb kebabs, both ground and in big chunks, are tender and juicy, as is lemon-marinated chicken breast. Finish with an elegant rendition of the classic baklava.

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