There are New York delicatessens that don’t go as hard as Josh’s. It’s amazing to see thick cuts of house-cured pastrami gleaming with moisture and capped with ribbons of fat. The Angus brisket is cured for ten days, smoked, and then steamed; it evokes a smoky flavor (with a hint of sweetness) that puts it on a peppery par with great barbecue. The corned beef is that same Angus brisket, cured, braised, and sliced thick and juicy — miles apart from the pallid strips of meat that pass for an original cut nowadays. All sandwiches come on thin-sliced, seed-flecked rye spread with dazzling yellow mustard — make, like everything else, on the premises. All meats and fish are cured and/or smoked in-house. Owner Josh Marcus makes the sour pickles too, alongside wild creations such as the “Jewban,” an unholy Jewish-Cuban alliance made with pastrami, Swiss cheese, pickles, and pork. Be sure to also get one of the rotating very un-kosher brunch sandwiches, such as a croissant stuffed with soft-shell crab, fried eggs, bacon, American cheese, and paprika-laced ketchup; or an omelet filled with sweet lobster knuckle meat, leeks, mushrooms, and fontina cheese. New Normal: Until further notice, Josh’s is open Thursday through Sunday only. Follow @joshsdeli on Instagram for special menus and pop-ups.