Restaurant Reviews

Closer Look: Three in Wynwood

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Three, though, is the heart of the operation. Here, Van Aken cooks his signature Florida fusion cuisine in a sleek and tropical space. The staff is disciplined, and the food is topnotch. It’s the sort of fine dining that fans of this Mango Gang legend expect.

But amid throngs of 20-somethings on the way to spots such as 1-800-Lucky and Coyo Taco, this restaurant appears slightly misplaced, like a dad struggling to be cool.

The restaurant, bar, and cooking school cover more than 7,000 square feet in a neighborhood overrun by construction and rising real-estate prices. Van Aken and business partners Candace Walsh and Susan Buckley are betting a quality $60, three-course meal will appear more attractive than a $5 taco.

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