Restaurant Reviews

Flapjack Flip-Off X: Uva 69

The decade has seemingly flipped by faster than a griddlecake in midair: The 10th Annual Mrs. Beeton Flapjack Flip-Off is just around the corner (Mrs. B. being our patron saint for her prescient in-print assertion, made 101 years ago, that pancakes "must be regarded as somewhat beyond the capabilities of average digestive organs"). Leading up to next week's publication, Short Order will each day highlight one of the five unwitting contestants. First up is Uva 69.

The Where You Bean? Award goes to Uva 69 for its "vanilla bean

pancakes" sans vanilla beans. The fresh, thin (read: flimsy) two-stack

was prepared from homemade buttermilk-based batter. A presentation

mistake -- overlapping the hotcakes rather than stacking them -- allowed

the heat to dissipate quickly. The garnish was an unripe strawberry in

strawberry sauce, softly whipped butter, and faux maple syrup. A big

cup of newly brewed, excellent coffee greatly pleased the judge.

Service was solid, and the outdoor seating, somewhat secluded from

Biscayne Boulevard, was comfy as could be. Two pancakes, $6.95; coffee,

$2. Total: $8.95.

Uva 69

6900 Biscayne Blvd., Miami

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Miami New Times' restaurant reviewer for the past decade, and the world's indisputable master of disguise.
Contact: Lee Klein