The first, in line with the aspirations of most restaurateurs, was to create a space that embraced hospitality at its finest. The second was more focused: Present a modern take on classic Italian dishes that would maintain a familiar essence while tipping toward subtle, contemporary twists.
As Doma marks its fifth anniversary, Lomonaco says he feels a sense of accomplishment that his initial aspirations continue to define the establishment's identity in Miami's fast-growing dining scene.
Amid the ever-changing landscape, especially within the Wynwood neighborhood, it's no accident that Doma has cultivated a dedicated local base — something many establishments strive to do, but few succeed.
A self-made restaurateur from northern Italy, Lomonaco began his journey in Miami's restaurant industry in his early 20s, starting as a busboy and rising to become a skilled waiter and eventually a sommelier. After a stint in San Francisco, Lomonaco returned to Miami, recognizing an opportunity to contribute to the local dining scene, and opened Doma at the young age of 30.
"Today, most of Doma's patrons are regulars from the local community," Lomonaco tells New Times. "The winter season is our peak, with many snowbirds who have made Doma a yearly tradition. Come summer, our tables fill with familiar faces, locals who seize the opportunity to drop in on a whim during the quieter season."
Stepping into Doma on any given night, it's easy to grasp the restaurant's staying power. Lomonaco himself can often be seen in the dining room making his rounds, personally welcoming guests, many of whom he knows by name. The warm and personable atmosphere extends to the staff, and stand by the name "doma" — which means "home" in Latin, a choice made by Lomonaco as a testament to his mission.
"It reflects our vision for hospitality," adds Lomonaco. "It's professional without being stuffy. It's personal without being too formal. We talk with the guest and seek to understand and connect with them."
And there's the food, a menu beautifully executed by Italian chef Marco Giugliano. Straight from the bustling open kitchen to the dining room guests, Doma's dishes showcase an array of artfully plated fare that embody a traditional foundation while incorporating surprising elements.
Take the bucatini cacio e pepe, a well-known dish made especially piquant with the unexpected addition of Szechuan black pepper. The spice adds a distinctive floral note to the tangle of creamy pasta, while crouton-like wedges of crispy pecorino offer added texture and crunch.
But the signature "Soft Egg Alla Nerano," a simple and indulgent dish, can't be missed. Here, a poached egg is topped with a rich lamb ragu, a fragrant basil mousse, and a delicate Parmesan espuma — one meticulously crafted using a siphon technique that renders the cheese into an airy foam. When it arrives at your table, simply take your spoon, break the egg, and mix it for a triple-threat bite that delivers creamy, tangy, and savory.
Doma's Italian cheesecake is shaped like a slice of cheese, covered in a layer of white chocolate, and finished tableside with a raspberry sauce.
Doma photo
With each dish and each encounter, Doma continues to embody its founding principles, proving that amidst the dynamic culinary landscape of Miami, a commitment to hospitality and culinary excellence remains one of the most important ingredients to success.
Moving forward, Lomonaco shares with New Times that he aims to deliver those same principles via a new cocktail lounge called Bako — which means "enjoy" in Latin — sometime in early 2024 in a space next door to Doma.
"Of all the accomplishments that Doma has achieved over the years, what I'm most proud of is the dedicated team we've built," sums up Lomonaco. "Their commitment to excellence and service is at the heart of Doma, especially as the industry grows more competitive, with renowned names from New York raising the bar. We feel so fortunate the community has embraced us."
Doma. 35 NE 26th St., Miami; 786-953-6946; domawynwood.com. Monday through Wednesday 6 to 10:30 p.m., and Thursday through Saturday 6 to 11 p.m.
