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Dim Sum at Sang's in Miami's Chinatown

She would have ended up at Sang's Chinese for dim sum. And, man, that would have been the right choice. This quiet but most genuine of local Chinese joints offers the typical breakfast/lunch 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. every day in North Miami Beach. Bone up on your Mandarin before you go,...

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She would have ended up at Sang's Chinese for dim sum. And, man, that would have been the right choice. This quiet but most genuine of local Chinese joints offers the typical breakfast/lunch 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. every day in North Miami Beach. Bone up on your Mandarin before you go, though.

The chow is magnificent. My favorite on a weekend visit were the shrimp dumplings ($3.15), which were light and perfect; least favorite was the sticky rice ($3.15), which should be crisp and full of moist pork, but instead was greasy and didn't hold together well. Fried stuffed taro ($2.75) -- a lightly fried concoction filled with pork, brown sauce, scallions, and other ingredients -- was stupendous, the best I have ever had. 

Fried shrimp riolls with mango -- you know, 'tis the season -- were also are great. They go for a measly $3.15. In fact, the best thing about this place is the cost, which is almost nil. A meal for two with tea cost us $12. And we were full for the rest of the day. 

The beauty of Sang's and a half-dozen other Chinese restaurants in North Miami Beach along NE 163rd Street is that they really do approximate Chinatown, though the tangly streets of San Francisco or New York are replaced by one long main drag that also includes a Toys R Us and a Krispy Kreme. But ask yourself -- is that all bad?