Bubbe's Matzo Ball Soup at Kush Hialeah Is Comfort in a Bowl | Miami New Times
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Feeling Under the Weather? You Need Bubbe's Matzo Ball Soup

Kush Hialeah offers the golden elixir for delivery.
Bubbe's matzo ball soup cures what ails you.
Bubbe's matzo ball soup cures what ails you. Kush Hialeah photo
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December is the month to gather with friends at holiday parties, travel to see the family, maybe take a ski trip or visit a winter market in a colder climate, and party the night away on New Year's Eve.

January is the month to recover.

Most of us have eaten and drank too much, and maybe slept too little. Combine that with the trifecta that is COVID, the flu, and the respiratory syncytial virus (RSV) that's going around, and it's no surprise that many of us are feeling a little under the weather.

Whether you're in bed sick, need some recuperation, or just a hug in liquid form, there's one thing that can make you feel better: Bubbe's matzo ball soup, also known as Jewish Penicillin.

A traditional Jewish dish, matzo ball soup has transcended its roots to become the ultimate comfort food. Matt Kuscher's Kush Hialeah (formerly Stephen's Deli) has been selling matzo ball soup since the original owners opened it in 1954. That original recipe remains one of the biggest sellers, according to the restaurateur. "The soup has been there since, to my knowledge, the restaurant's beginning," Kuscher tells New Times. "It was Stephen's recipe, and then it was Junior's recipe," he says, referring to  Henderson “Junior” Biggers, the deli's longtime and much-loved employee who retired this past Friday after 65 years of service (Biggers started working at the Hialeah deli in 1957.)

The soup is simple, according to Kuscher: Just a good chicken broth made from scratch, with chicken, carrots, and celery. The matzo balls, however, take skill and love to make, says Kuscher. "Unlike noodles in chicken noodle soup, matzo balls are delicate. Each one has to be hand rolled. You also have to keep them separate from the soup."

That extra care, though, means a world of difference. "The matzo balls are fluffy and soft. They're far more comforting than a noodle," says Kuscher who grew up eating the soup at his grandfather's deli and at his grandparent's house.

Don't think, however, that you have to be Jewish to enjoy the soup. Kuscher points out that almost every culture offers comfort food. "Whether you grew up with arroz con pollo or chicken soup, the most important thing is that it's something that your grandmother would make. It's about the memory as much as the dish."

Kuscher says that whenever any family member or friend gets sick, the first thing he does is pack up a jar of soup. "It makes you feel like you're being taken care of."

It seems as though Miamians agree on the mythical healing qualities of matzoh ball soup. Kush Hialeah sells gallons of its "Bubbe's" (Bubbe is Yiddish for grandma). "It seems like everyone who orders a pastrami sandwich also orders the soup," he adds.

Kush Hialeah also offers three other soups: a chili; a tomato soup and grilled cheese combo; and a soup of the day. "We sell a ton of soup. It's comfort food. It's either what you grew up on, or it's what you saw served on television shows like Leave it to Beaver," says Kuscher.
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Better than roses and a hug
Kush Hialeah photo
Bubbe's matzo ball soup is such a hit, the store has started a campaign for people to send soup to friends instead of flowers. A sign by the counter reads, "Instead of roses and a hug, send them matzoh in a jug." (Matzoh is an alternative spelling for the fluffy dough balls.)

"That's a riff on a sign at Katz's Deli in New York City from back in the day that said, 'Send a salami to your boy in the army.' Even the Jerky Boys in the '90s used to crank call people with that slogan. I wanted to do something in the same spirit," says Kuscher.

If you want to send some "matzoh in a jug" to a friend who isn't feeling well — or you're in need of some soup personally — you don't even have to drive to Hialeah to pick up a bowl. Uber Eats and Door Dash will deliver the golden elixir to your (or your friend's) door. The cost of this liquid hug? Between $8 and $9 (depending on whether you dine in or order for delivery).

And yes, every jar of soup has a sticker that says, "Instead of roses and a hug, here's some matzoh in a jug."

This is a soup to warm both throats and hearts.

Kush Hialeah. 1000 E. 16th St., Hialeah; 305-887-8863; kushhospitality.com. Sunday through Thursday 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. and Friday and Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.
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