For a town with many charming, evocative neighborhoods, Miami has relatively few charming, evocative neighborhood restaurants. This modest little Italian eatery in a nothing-much Key Biscayne strip mall is one. There's no reinventing of the culinary wheel, simply the staples of the Italian kitchen done with a bit more care and verve than at many similar establishments. Fried calamari is crisp and grease-free, and pasta e fagioli is garlicky and rib-sticking. Spaghetti frutti di mare and veal capricciosa are good bets too, as is the excellent house-made tiramisu.