Tira D. Toss embodies the blending of cuisines reflected in the name, an odd spelling for "tiraditos" (raw fish in a spicy sauce). What resulted is a humble gem with a lengthy list of treats that, like the restaurant itself, hides in plain sight. The Peruvian sushi rolls are the menu's biggest attention-grabbers. The Rolls-Royce roll includes a meaty slab of bright-orange sweet potato with lukewarm sushi rice that is sweet and tart enough to enliven the shiny slivers of fatty salmon that crown each piece.
Take a pull of chicha morada -- a sweet, bluish drink made with Peruvian purple corn, pineapple, and orange accented by the spicy aroma of cinnamon and cloves. Nibble an anticucho of a half-dozen juicy, glistening chunks of beef hea...
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