George Martinez

Ristorante Fratelli Milano

George Martinez
Ristorante Fratelli Milano's umbrella-shaded tables are tightly clustered together on pinched, pedestrian-clogged SE First Street, and the two dozen indoor seats are just as closely cramped in the windowless aisle of a room. This ain't exactly the Piazza del Duomo. Limited starter choices include an antipasti misto, bruschetta atop toasted ciabatta bread, soup of the day, and paper-thin pizzas that are blackened along the rim. A half-dozen salads encompass the usual suspects — caprese, caesar, and chef — along with pasta, spinach, and arugula assemblages garishly garnished with too many ingredients to list. Pastas are uniformly praiseworthy, including a thick, wide square of lasagna plied with sausage-laden meat sauce, bechamel, mozzarella fior di latte, and Parmigiano-Reggiano. Fratelli's offerings are freshly made and popularly priced, attributes that are considerable consolation for downtown Miami workers who won't get to stretch their legs over the cobblestones of the Piazza del Duomo anytime soon.

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