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Covadonga

Rigged out in shipboard gear, this fine seafood restaurant has earned its spars and stripes. You almost expect the creaking of the hull and the tang of salt air; instead, you get the horns and exhaust from SW Eighth Street and one of the best Cuban meals in the city. For starters, try the clams in green sauce, shrimp in garlic sauce, kingfish escabeche, or fish soup. Move on to the whole baby squid stuffed with ham in brown sauce, paella Covadonga for two, or shellfish galore in rich, buttery tomato sauce.

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