Edge Steak and Bar Wins With Delicious Cuts, Bright Cuisine, and Affordable Bills

The wine list is people-friendly too. About a hundred bottles are categorized by simple flavor profiles. Whites are divvied into "clean & easy," "floral & exotic," and "savory & complex"; reds are "soft & smooth," "spicy & exotic," and "rich & bold." Bottles run $40 and up, quartinos are $14 to $37, and by-the-glass wines go for $11 to $19 (and all are two-for-one from 3 to 7 p.m. seven days a week). Draft beers include Harpoon UFO White from Boston and Monk in the Trunk from Jupiter, Florida; about 20 bottles of commercial and craft brews are poured too.

Desserts by German pastry chef Marko Krancher keep the consistency rolling. A "chiboust" translates to a cylinder of chilled whipped lemon cream — sort of mousse-like — capped with bronzed meringue. Even better is a napoleon layered with seven types of chocolate, a bit of gianduja crunch, a wispy wafer on top, and homemade raspberry ice cream (made with dried raspberries) on the side.

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Local corvina with a basil crust. View more photos of Edge Steak & Bar.

Location Info

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Edge Steak & Bar

1435 Brickell Ave.
Miami, FL 33131

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Downtown/Overtown

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Details

Edge Steak and Bar

305-381-3190
edgerestaurantmiami.com

Breakfast daily 6:30 to 11 a.m.; lunch 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; dinner 6 to 11 p.m.; brunch Sunday 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Edge Bar 3 p.m. to midnight.

Pork belly with apple and celery salad $13
Tartare sampler $18
Basil-crusted corvina $22
Butcher's cut filet $25
Chocolate napoleon $7

View a photo slide show of Edge Steak & Bar.

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More About

• Aaron Brooks
• Vancouver
• James King
• Eating Out
• Food and Cooking

Already sated by a steak dinner and want to end with a sweet, creamy bite? Cheesecake lollipops are $2 apiece. The rest of the delectable desserts are $7. So-called midrange restaurants routinely charge $8 to $10 for brownie-and-ice-cream treats.

View a photo slide show of Edge Steak & Bar.

Cotton candy flavored with passionfruit is handed out to some patrons along with the check, but not to others. The idea is to end the meal "with delight," but when only the privileged receive the treat, dinner can end with cotton-candy-envy instead. That was just one of numerous service quirks.

Another was bringing the gigantic tartare platter at the same time as two hot appetizers. The former occupied the entire center of the table, necessitating moving glasses about to accommodate it. The other two plates were placed at opposite corners of the table, taking up the area between place settings. That wasn't smart in terms of pacing or space.

Our waiter was otherwise knowledgeable about the food and professional in his manner, although the table wasn't cleaned between courses; dessert plates were placed upon dinner crumbs like frisbees on sand. You don't expect that at a Four Seasons property.

But you also don't expect a Four Seasons Hotel restaurant to be this accessible and affordable. Upscale hotel chefs often cite the constraints of having to provide meals that appeal to conservative families and business clientele in order to justify staid, unimaginative offerings. Chef Brooks's menu stands as a blueprint for how to produce brilliant, innovative fare that appeals to all tastes. The answer lies not in a liberal use of foie gras and truffle oil, nor in gimmickry or gargantuan servings. Quality food that looks and tastes great will fit most folks' bill, especially if it's fairly priced. That's what gives Edge the edge over its competitors.