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Closer Look: Bread + Butter in Coral Gables

Alberto Cabrera speaks pure Spanglish. He says pero instead of but. His grandmother is abuela. His landlord? Un viejo cubano — an old Cuban man. His words drift from English to Spanish in a stream. In his family, he's known as pan con mantequilla (bread and butter). Twenty years ago, during a trip to Cuba, his aunt coined the pet name. Cabrera hadn't eaten anything but bread and butter for days. "It was a time when food was really scarce," he recalls. The name stuck.

Now the 37-year-old has become fixated on Cuban cuisine. "I'll take mariquitas and un chicharrón over chicken wings any day," he says. And he's creative about it. At his inaugural restaurant, Bread + Butter, he's reinventing the food of his childhood and making it modern, melding ingredients such as lechón asado, black truffles, and sriracha.

Read the full review on Bread + Butter in Coral Gables.