Restaurant Reviews

Box Park: Matt Hinckley Is a Rising Star Chef

You won't taste the gator. It's cooked in a thick, fiery gumbo with okra, shrimp, and boar, so you're fooled by its familiar aroma, which is blended with sassafras and smoke. The greenish liquid, fortified with spices and herbs, veils the exotic flavors of reptile and wild boar.

Sure, you can ignore the menu and pretend you're eating chicken and pork. Never mind that the rest of your meal is so unusual -- staggering servings of goose prosciutto, antelope salami, and pan-seared Asian snakehead fish. Soon you'll realize this place actually welcomes the timid. At Box Park, even you can learn to love invasive pests.

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Emily Codik