Columns

Best Eats in Merrick Park: Pascal Oudin's New Brasserie Central

Food isn't all that makes a French brasserie. Sure, there's tangy cheese and the rich, peppery aroma of steak frites. But just as important is the frazzled waitress with a pack of cigarettes peeking from her purse. And then there are the throngs of cafégoers, who crowd the sidewalk to sip wine and chat even on brisk winter nights.

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Zachary Fagenson became the New Times Broward-Palm Beach restaurant critic in 2012 before taking up the post for Miami in 2014. He also works as a correspondent for Reuters.
Contact: Zachary Fagenson