On the Upper Eastside, Phuc Yea is a grand 110-seater filled with the sounds of ‘90s hip-hop and the scent of Vietnam’s ubiquitous fish sauce. Try the green papaya salad, in which chilies, garlic, dried shrimp, and Vietnamese coriander are pulverized into a potent paste that’s tossed with toothsome papaya threads, carrots, and sweet cherry tomatoes, then crowned with banana blossom ribbons, shallots, and herbs. PY noodles, tossed with garlic butter, oyster sauce, and Parmesan cheese, are soulful comfort food, as is a pho made with rich broth. On Sundays, enjoy a spirited brunch that features a frozen cocktail of the day.
New Normal: Phuc Yea’s lantern garden offers a charming and whimsical place to dine alfresco.