The sushi bar at this Japanese/Peruvian fusion cafe fleshes out fish that is fresh and satisfying, if not distinctive enough to keep Nobu Matsuhisa awake at night. "Traditional" rolls (California, spicy tuna, eel-avocado) are pristinely presented, as are a dozen "specialty" rolls, nearly all of which wrap rice around shellfish. Ceviches are similarly pure and straightforward — try the yellowtail version, whose succulent squares of fish are refreshingly braced with citrus and ginger. The non-sushi/ceviche selections are also good, especially appetizers of fried oysters with brittle crusts and pudding-soft centers, as well as crunchy vegetable tempura. Moshi is a neat neighborhood restaurant whose ambiance and service are warmly welcoming, and the food affording excellent value.
Thursday, November 27, 2008 at 3 a.m. by Lee Klein
It used to be that the best fish in Peru went to the chickens. The coastal location ensured there was never a shortage of seafood, but because Peruvians preferred meat, much of their ocean bounty was fed to the birds — which u...