As Miami Beach's Sunset Harbour neighborhood has grown more popular, the offerings at restaurants in the area have become increasingly varied but also more expensive. Lutum — from local operators Washington Charles and Antar Sosa, along with chef Mike Mayta — is the antidote. An ethereal chicken liver mousse begins with the organ meat taking on a hard sear in the bird's own fat. Then comes a flurry of spices that toe the line between Jewish chopped liver and a more French, cognac-laced preparation. There's a spot-on cacio e pepe, as well as a perfectly seared burger for patrons who think the space is still home to its last tenant, Burger & Beer Joint. Lutum, thankfully, comes just in time to give the area a place that harks back to the neighborhood's roots without sacrificing anything.