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Kobe Club

The dark room is clad in black leather banquettes and booths, an LCD image of hellish flames licking the back wall, chain links hanging from another, and a thousand or so samurai swords suspended from the ceiling with points dangling downward -- the steak house of Marilyn Manson's dreams. Of course, he could afford it -- the least expensive Wagyu is a four-ounce American filet for $50; same weight Australian is $65, Japanese $105. Ten-ounce rib eyes are $105, $150, and $260. Regarding beefiness of flavor, Australian Wagyu falls between mild American and potent Japanese. Patrons get to choose one of a dozen "sauces, butters, and toppings" such as Gorgonzola cream, lobster béarnaise, and -- for a four-dollar surcharge -- foie gras or black truffle butter. The foie-gras-like, melt-in-your-mouth Wagyu qualities are showcased not only in steaks but also in appetizers such as a sumptuous cube of braised American-raised "Kobe-style" short rib capped with juicily seared diver scallops and a ravioli dome of ground beef cheek. Steak house side dishes are a cut above average, especially the creamed corn with truffles. The wine list is aptly stocked with big reds. Not everyone will be infatuated with Kobe Club's fatty Wagyu and fat-cat prices, but steak aficionados will surely enjoy the show.

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