Enso

"Enso is an evolutionary solutions workshop which creates the scientific study of deliciousness." So begins the insanely inventive, thoroughly audacious menu at this new sushi/hibachi/Mediterranean deconstructionist establishment on Lincoln Road. Each of a dozen main courses is categorized as "Study," "Analysis," or "Inspiration"; some come fragmented into four. Yellowtail, for instance, brings hamachi meatballs; a "terrine" of raw hamachi slices with diced apple and pine-nut crisp; hamachi "ravioli" wrapped around diced fruit and foamed with basil; and pliable "chips" of fish with "clarified gazpacho." Each component thrilled, as did all four parts of a chocolate dessert (ranging in form from Kit Kat bar to caviar). Sushi is solid too, and a few ceviches and tiraditos are offered. Yet another option (and best bang for the buck at $19) is to choose from a list of meat, fish, and vegetable skewers - served with rice, flour tortillas, salad, and potato croquette - and cook them at a tableside hibachi. Fancier entrées run $28 to $32. Enso's cuisine surprises with its inventiveness and audacity, but what really shocks is just how tasty most of it is.

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