Step inside the Bird Road location of El Novillo and you'll find yourself in the re-created courtyard of a Nicaraguan hacienda, complete with burbling fountain and guitar music. That's the idea at least, and if you don't find it convincing, let the excellent food and extremely attentive service ease your nerves and remove you from Bird Road traffic woes. If that doesn't work, eat a 16-ounce "Big Daddy" churrasco —after that, you won't care where you are. Perfectly cooked — seared outside, melting inside — churrasco is the signature at El Novillo, but just about all of the food stands out here.
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