Bobby's Meals is home to an igneous brew of vinegar and chili called escovitch that's slathered over plump, flaky fillets. Like the vegetarian Ital plates, the fish comes alongside a mound of fragrant basmati rice studded with tender red beans. There are stewed peas: kidney and black beans, along with tight, smooth pigeon peas cooked off in a slightly sweet, warming union of diced turnips, carrots, beets, and pumpkin flesh.