Big Fish

The famed restaurant has changed hands again. Food that formerly could be considered sort of Spanish is now sort of Italian. The emphasis, however, is still on seafood; only two appetizers, one pasta, and one entrée are nonfish dishes. Prices also are higher, with starters running from $7.50 to $12, pastas and rice $13 to $19, and entrées $18.50 to $27.50. These prices are deceptive, as most single items feed two. But just like before, the true attraction is Big Fish's setting -- spectacular, in a raffish way. With the neon-accented Metrorail glowing off to the left, the lights of downtown Miami just across the river, a drawbridge to the right, and all sorts of river traffic (freighters, fishing boats, luxury yachts, hungry pelicans) directly in their faces, diners get a fascinating instant-camera visual insight into Miami's dual nature: tropical beach-party playground and working shipping/fishing port.