Apouchy seems to put a little extra into all the Haitian standbys. The pikliz is spicier, the stewed vegetable dish called legume seems richer and more full of substance, and the shrimp in coconut sauce seems to burst with fat crustaceans. But it’s the soup joumou served every Sunday that has you thinking about this place in the middle of the week. The stuff is the symbol of Haitian freedom, and is what the island-nation’s enslaved freedom fighters snacked on after ousting the French. Slaves weren’t allowed to eat soup. But with long awaited and deserved freedom, free men devoured the rich, pumpkin-infused broth sweetened with bell peppers and enriched with cuts of beef still attached to marrow-filled bones. Soup joumou is everything to Haitians, and after a one slurp, it will be for you.
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