This 45-seat bistro resonates with Old World charm, reverberates with robust conversations, and serves textbook French country fare in a rapidly pulsed, relaxingly paced manner. Start with a faultlessly prepared French onion soup, or scrumptious homemade pate de campagne encircled by nicoise olives, cornichons, and sweet onion confit. Help yourself to freshly sliced baguettes and consider one of the affordably priced wines. If fish be your wish, choose from salmon, snapper, tuna, and Chilean sea bass, most roasted or pan seared and served with simple accompaniments: sea bass with artichokes and tomato confit, snapper with fresh herbs and ratatouille. Meats and poultry also are deliciously direct. Generously portioned pies, prepared on the premises, provide no letdown.