Wish Restaurant

Dining on Wish's canopied garden patio is so idyllic it summons to mind a Renoir picnic. A mosaic fountain with flickering lights centers the space, which is also illuminated by string lights laced through foliage, twinkling candles, and blinking electric ice cubes in the cocktails. Though chefs and menu items have changed through the years, the fare remains contemporary American with Mediterranean and Asian influences. The format is still a concise collection of six appetizers, 10 entrées, and a smattering of salads and sides. The latest top toque is Marco Ferraro, whose clean, fresh style is best exemplified in a starter of lobster ravioli. Another knock-your-socks-off moment is a buttery, snow-white cauliflower purée beside a lightly grilled swordfish steak that was small in circumference but nearly two inches thick. Thick diver scallops also are good, as is a juicy Kurobuta pork chop, but some dishes miss the mark (such as a dry deckle steak starter and a French toast dessert). Still, if you wish upon a star ...