Morgans holds court in a renovated two-story 1930s house, freshly painted white, with black-and-white striped awnings and porches around the front and side. So very pretty and quaint. "Modern comfort food" means a slightly jazzed, occasionally Asian- or Mediterranean-inspired lineup of dishes. For instance, there are great panko-crusted cubes of "coconut essence" tofu pooled in apricot-soy glaze. We also liked "little ears" pasta with broccoli rabe and numerous patty pieces of savory homemade turkey sausage; thin but flavorful lentil soup; and double-ribbed organic lamb chops. Sitting on that idyllic porch in the lemonade-colored sunshine is downright Waltons-esque. If only we could inhale the flatulence of cows rather than cars.