When you've had it up to here with lasagna, tiramisu, and all the usual Italian culinary suspects, this cheery, bustling trattoria offers some pleasant alternatives. Vitello tonnato, the classic pairing of unctuous tuna mayonnaise and cold roasted veal, is nicely done and a perfect summertime dish. The same goes for above-average gnocchi in a creamy, garlicky pesto sauce. Carnivores will lick their chops for the enormous braised pork shank with risotto, a dish that keeps on giving for lunch the next day.
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