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Sra. Martinez

Consider Sra. Martinez the Andalusian alter ego of Michy's - same big flavors crammed onto "small plates," albeit with a heavier anchor in the Mediterranean. And think of the décor as a Seville-style makeover of what was formerly Domo Japonese - a lovely, lofty space for dining. Many of the foods here are just like those you're likely to encounter at reputable neighborhood tapas bars in that country; these are the plates we were least impressed with, if only because of a nagging notion that one of our city's finest chefs, Michelle Bernstein, should do more than authentically mimic a Seville street cook. Yet there are also inspired offerings that amply amplify Bernstein's creative brilliance, such as monkfish cheeks piqued with sherry gastrique and molasses; a fat, meaty square of pork belly richly delicious in sweet-and-sour glaze; and a sensational sweet/salty sea urchin sandwich accented with ginger-soy butter and crisply pressed in French bread. The smartly selected list of regional Spanish sherries and wines is marked up in reasonable fashion, most by-the-glass selections selling for $10 and under. Diners can also get into the spirit with a smoked Kentucky ham-infused Maker's Mark Manhattan or any number of creative cocktails. Service is friendly and informed, the ambiance is noisy and fun, and the cuisine is fine enough to earn Sra. Martinez a hearty stamp of approval.

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