Pez, which joins a cadre of bars and restaurants that have opened in a slowly changing downtown Miami, specializes in the seafood-centric cuisine of chef/owner Javier Plascencia’s native Tijuana. The menu is split into sections of hot and cold small plates called botanas, tacos, tostadas, and entrées that draw on a larger swatch of Mexican cuisine. Among the best options are a tostada with a toothsome combination of green lentils and barley tossed in sesame oil and Banyuls vinegar. Also worthy of attention is a fat, beautifully cooked loin of halibut that comes with a toasty hoja santa leaf whose herby greenery perfectly complements the fish’s delicate, fleshy sweetness. If only the tortillas were good enough to match.
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Restaurants will save downtown Miami. Despite the efforts of the city, its boosters, and the unclear intentions of real-estate developers, whenever one talks about the blocks surrounding historic Flagler Street, it's mostly the rest...
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