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Haven

The snow-capped mountain range is dazzlingly white against an impossibly blue sky, and snowflakes slowly drift to the rhythm of the Tom Tom Club. The Tom Tom Club? Don't ask questions; just go with the flow. The wraparound LCD walls might soon change to images of the Mediterranean. A thousand or so ice-cube lights running in rows on a black ceiling subtly switch hues. The Siberian white-onyx bar changes color too, and if you sit long enough, Haven Gastro-Lounge fills to the brim with an electric late-night South Beach crowd (the room stays plugged in daily till 5 in the morning). Cocktails, placed on our table by a young waitress in a skin-tight micro-skirt, emanate smoke from liquid nitrogen -- also used to great visual effect in creating made-to-order ice creams for dessert. Among the drinks, desserts, and dramatics are a global mix of delectable small plates orchestrated by chef Todd Erickson. There are six categories of haute bar snacks: Crudo, Green, Roll, Crisp, Skewer, and Slider. Everything bursts with clean, fresh flavors, from a spicy tuna roll with crisp rice to coconut-crusted rock shrimp with wasabi-peach marmalade to a skewer of jerked chicken thighs atop a cucumber-pineapple salsa. Scintillating food in a stimulating psychedelic environment for the digital age. Cool.

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