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China Grill

This SoBe pioneer is still bold, boisterous, big on a grand scale. Let's use one dish to illustrate: Sake-marinated chicken was a half-bird crisply grilled and sliced into thick, moist wedges imbued with smoke and spice. A mound of vinegary napa cabbage salad countered with an acidic tang, as did a thin, dark sauce based on rice wine vinegar, miso, and soy; thick tempura onion rings were a nice touch on top. This one meal contained enough heft to be tasted by the whole table, and also served to remind that while the food here isn't as exquisite as the elite handful of our best New World/fusion restaurants, China Grill does serve fresher, lighter, smarter cuisine than the glut of muddled global eateries that regrettably followed in the wake of its success.

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