Congratulations to Claude Troisgros on his latest baby. “Baby Blue,” a prix-fixe bistro menu conceived as an alternative to the more illustrious Blue Door, is available in the “Brasserie” section of the Delano. Don’t know where that is? Well don’t look at me, I’m not too handy with directions either…
Attention New Yorkers: Never underestimate Miami. Don’t put down its people. Try not to sneer at what you don’t comprehend. Use the idea of superiority to describe our weather and our beaches; don’t apply it to your attitude. The only patronizing we want you to do is in our shops…
Ma-roosh goes the fan as it sweeps across gray embers and revives their red glow, which is how this Mediterranean restaurant in Coral Gables gets its name. Although new to the neighborhood, owner Samir Al-Barq has been dishing Middle Eastern specialties at Maroosh’s former Kendall site for more than a…
Although I’ve always thought idiotic the theory that formal food schooling should be required of restaurant reviewers (if the same standard was applied to restaurant chefs, South Florida would be minus major self-taught talents like Norman Van Aken and Ortanique’s Cindy Hutson), an exchange at the recent overwhelmingly successful South…
Remember the way Miss Piggy spoke “French”? Sure vous do! Vous can’t tell me that even 50-year-old readers don’t still sometimes sneak a peek at Sesame Street and Mlle. P’s exuberantly pretentious ventures into zee vaireee heavily accented faique Franglais. Less funny was the sort of faique French food that…
A couple of years ago, while pregnant with my son, I had the misfortune of reviewing a Hollywood restaurant called Estrella del Mar. The place was simply awful, serving such old, stale food that we were afraid to eat most of it. Of course the owners disagreed, writing a letter…
The Miami Design District is a nice neighborhood for strolling. The various antique and design shops contain interesting merchandise to peruse and you don’t have to worry about getting pushed around by a crowd. There never is one. At least not the times I’ve found myself walking here, in what…
Here’s a puzzler: What was the only thing wetter than Christie Wolfe’s joyous tearstained face at the opening of her and husband Jeffrey’s boutique wine store, Wolfe’s Wine Shoppe on Miracle Mile? Why, the wine that was being poured, of course, including the Bott-Geyl Pinot D’Alsace 1999, the Adami Prosecco…
Décor dripping with dragons, eye-popping red/green/gold-leafed pagodas, Chinese coolie peasants pulling rickshaws — even the name itself does not exactly scream “21st-century cuisine!” or even whisper the suggestion to savvy diners that authenticity might be on the menu at 67-year-old Fu Manchu, Miami Beach’s oldest Chinese restaurant. One expects not…
“Freedom of speech is a wonderful thing,” reads a blurb on the Website Restaurant Report On-Line. “This mighty democratic mainstay, however, gives restaurant critics the power to impact a restaurant’s future. Is this fair?” Of course the answer to such a black-and-white question is gray: maybe. On this particular Website,…
When China Grill first opened its doors in the spanking new Thomas Kramer building in 1996, the resultant buzz was so loud it gave other restaurateurs headaches. But the explosively successful opening was not what made this the most influential restaurant in the short history of modern South Beach. Rather…
If I’d wondered why I was vacationing in Curaçao — and friends from northern climes certainly had wondered why someone who lives on one subtropical Atlantic Ocean resort island would leave it for another — the definitive answer came the first night, about one mouthful into my entrée of paneer…
So have you heard the one about the Columbia University School of Business assistant professor who wrote to 240 New York City restaurants, claiming he’d contracted food poisoning at each establishment? He’s being sued for $100 million. Good for those restaurants, you might think. The professor, 29-year-old Frank Flynn, says…
The lovely, ivy-covered Hotel Place St. Michel has graced the Coral Gables intersection of Ponce de Leon Boulevard and Alcazar Avenue since 1926. Back then it was the Sevilla Hotel. Inside this European-style inn is the Restaurant St. Michel, which likewise exudes a simple elegance by way of wooden floors,…
Now here’s an unusual alliance: the Florida Restaurant Association (FRA) and Big Tobacco. Turns out the two groups are banding together in hopes of preventing a state referendum banning smoking in Florida restaurants from even appearing on the November ballot. Along with the Committee for Responsible Solutions, the FRA better…
The outdoor lobby of Lincoln Road’s Sterling Building has proved to be a problematic location for restaurants. Pacific Time Café and South Beach Stone Crabs, the prior occupants, had to contend with moviegoers cutting through their dining room for entry into the Alliance Cinema, and the distraction of a large…
Of the many different styles of pizza available in Miami these days (Neapolitan, Roman, Sicilian, Chicago deep-dish, Cuban, and even in one Japanese joint, “Sushi Pizza”), the most difficult to define is New York pizza. The one constant is that, like native New Yorkers, every New York pizza lover has…
These bottom-of-the-page reviews tend to focus on informal, inexpensive dining options that aren’t even restaurants per se. Delicias de España certainly fits that description. Located just off the intersection of Red and Bird roads (next door to the nifty Fifties luncheonette Picnics at Allen’s), this Spanish bakery, café, take-out shop,…
Every cloud has a silver lining, they say … and say, and say. But just because something is a cliché doesn’t mean it isn’t true, as I recently discovered when a small culinary cloud, an embarrassing one-letter typo in a restaurant review, led to my discovering what is arguably the…
If my car hadn’t dramatically experienced two flat tires in front of the huge Tower apartment complex on Indian Creek, I’d never have known about Embassy Peking, even though it’s three blocks from my house. There certainly isn’t any kind of sign out front. When I walked up to the…
When Philippe Lajaunie, proprietor of Brasserie Les Halles in Coral Gables, greeted us recently at his 2002 choucroute dinner, he made several expected opening remarks. He defined the dish itself: shredded cabbage cooked in wine and juniper berries (think French sauerkraut) and topped with a variety of sausage, meat, poultry,…
