Do the Shuffle

Have you heard of the newest dance craze taking Miami’s most popular restaurant/lounges like a riptide? It’s called the South Beach Shuffle. Oops, silly me. Of course you don’t know about this hot trend yet, only those of us in the know know. But I never could keep a secret,…

Paint Pink, Eat Blue

•Blue Door’s looking pretty golden: The Delano hotel restaurant will soon be debuting a little sister in New York at the Royalton, where Blue Door will replace the current 44. Indeed 44 is already serving the Baby Blue prix-fixe menu, so change is not only imminent, it’s immediate, and The…

Here’s Your Chart

About halfway through my first visit to Coconut Grove’s Chart House, one of my dining buddies, a native Floridian, confessed that he and his family had tried to put the place out of business when it first opened in the early 1980s. Their gripe was not the food, which, he…

Crêpes Of Wrath

When we think of crêpes we think of France — the tantimolles of Champagne, the landimolles of Picardy, the chialades of Argonne, the sanciaux of Limousin and Berry. Well, all right, maybe we don’t think of that, but it is true that all of the really interesting crêpe traditions are…

On the Steaks of South Philly

Steve Martorano, it’s fair to say, is not a patient man. If you call him during the day, the chef-owner of Café Martorano in Fort Lauderdale won’t even answer the phone, since he doesn’t take reservations. If by some miracle he does pick up, he’ll probably be curt, limiting your…

The Agua Master, Please

Diners, it appears, have too many choices these days. First we have to figure out what kind of cuisine we want. Then we have to decide where to get it. Once there we have to weigh options on just about every aspect of dining, from ordering wine to translating vegetable…

The Nexxt Best Thing

Suppose you’ve got a foursome from out of town here on a visit, and you’re taking them on the obligatory stroll of Lincoln Road. It is getting near lunchtime, so you’re at the right spot — there are approximately 800 restaurants to choose from, or so it would seem from…

Planet of the Crêpes

Of all the American writers living in Paris during the 1920s, Ernest Hemingway was one of the few who had to work for a living rather than living on family wealth. This made him a genuine starving artist, hence the source of many of the famous stories of the period…

Moo Over Miami

If the adage “you are what you eat” were true, the Argentine language would consist of just one word: moo. Cambalache, a new Argentine restaurant in Sunny Isles, features, as all Argentine restaurants seem to, the parillada, whose dual translation can imply “grill” as well as “many grilled meats, some…

Simply Fabio

When chef Fabio Rolandi first arrived in Coral Gables from northern Italy in 1989, Italian food still basically meant mushy spaghetti with meatballs, and similar stuff never seen in Italy. In Northern Italian restaurants, mushy rice was substituted for the mushy spaghetti. Rolandi’s Casa Rolandi restaurant reputedly introduced South Floridians…

Taste, the Final Frontier

Note to self: Stop attending charity food functions. The mortification factor is getting way out of control. For instance I’m awfully tired of being looked at funny when I give my name at the registration table. I know my last name’s a tiny bit of a doozy, so I make…

Sirena Songs

•It’s not exactly a mass exodus, but some of the Miami-Dade herd has certainly migrated. The Astor Place’s Johnny Vinczencz tells me he’s doing a “new project” in Delray Beach: DeBe is sort of the new SoBe, only classier. JoVi will be revamping the Sundy House, a restaurant located within…

Sum of Love Café

There’s a certain kind of eatery that once could be found all over the nation, those places I think of as “hippie hangouts,” and that’s not intended as derogatory. Rather it’s recognition that these casually artsy and creative cafés were more multimedia community centers with food than gourmet palaces, more…

Club Christy’s Space

Richard Nixon and Sen. Joe McCarthy wear nervous smiles while seated at one of Christy’s tables, steaks in front of them, a flash of the bulb capturing the moment for black-and-white eternity. Peter Lawford and Sammy Davis, Jr., mug for the camera, each waving a lamb chop in the air;…

Hot Hot Hot, Again

For the record, I wasn’t wrong last year when I predicted that South Beach and Miami-Dade would become, as more and more Americans stayed within country limits, a destination in a way that it hasn’t been since the mid-Nineties. But I have to admit it took a little longer than…

Waiter, the Grill Please

It’s an old but generally sound culinary adage that the quality of a restaurant meal can be predicted by the quality of its bread. That’s what was puzzling about my first dinner at Fairwind Seafood Bar & Grill. The bread was halfway decent. On a return visit, however, the bread…

Back at the Burner

“It’s a “Max.'” These were the first words I heard regarding Perry’s, the new restaurant that opened in a former Koo Koo Roo space in Aventura’s Loehmann’s Plaza last week. The eatery is co-owned by Burt Rapoport, who rose to South Florida fame with erstwhile partner Dennis Max by way…

The Daily News

Daily Bread, a Middle Eastern market and eatery that opened on the tip of South Beach just over two months ago, is a spinoff of Daily Bread in South Miami. These operations should not be confused, though both will be, with two other Daily Bread Middle Eastern markets, one on…

Populist Pasta

The Italian menu is likely to appeal to most everyone: pastas, panini, antipasti, salads, calzones, and thin-crust pizzas. The décor is cookie-cutter direct: clean brick columns, wooden floors, and tables covered with white or red-and-white checkered cloths; walls painted in warm colors, a few shelves upon them stocked with blue-and-yellow…

Hitched in Hialeah

It’s BBQ! It’s cowboy-kitschy in décor (old Wild West murals from the eatery’s early days almost 40 years ago, when Hialeah did a darned good imitation of a frontier town itself)! And mainly it’s almost the only place in Hialeah I can get to without getting lost. Okay, that’s a…

And Now, ‘Nam Sushi

This winter — for the umpteenth time since 1971, when Alice Waters and the “California Cuisine” gang at Chez Panisse first fired up their wood braziers and chefs all over America started throwing out their sauté pans — word from our country’s leading food gurus has been that grilling is…

Raising Cane

Even if you don’t recognize Cane Á Sucre as being the French way of saying “cane sugar,” and don’t notice the sign outside and on the front of the menu that says “French bakery, café, gourmet sandwiches,” chances are you’ll still know you’re in a French-style lunch spot. For one…